How do we choose our ingredients and formulas?

How do we choose our ingredients and formulas?

We all know that nowadays, you are more and more looking at products’ composition and ingredients origin, our formulation approach is thus increasingly important for our customers. That is the reason why we wanted to explain transparently the thinking we follow when we develop new products and when we select the ingredients we add to our formulas.

At CEBELIA, products formulation has always been in the heart of our development approach: to repair patients’s skin after aesthetic procedures, prolong their effects and offer a daily support, our products have to be the most efficient ones. Each ingredient matters and has to be essential to the formula and even more than that, each ingredient is chosen with the utmost care to be the best answer possible to the skin issue we identified and to guarantee high tolerance.

To begin with, many of our products are obviously formulated with our two patented active ingredients.


Thus, our LCE Balm, our Extreme Care, our Intensive Anti-Aging and our LCE Regard are formulated with our Cebeline.

Cebeline line

Cebeline was born after many years of research with the CNRS located in the French city of Lyon and with the Laminin 5 (Ln5) specialist Patricia Rousselle. We get interested by a deeper layer of the skin: the Dermo-Epidermal Junction (DEJ) located between the dermis and the epidermis. This part of the skin is highly interesting because it has a mechanical support role of dermis and epidermis adhesion and because it acts as a selective barrier allowing to control the molecular and cellular exchanges between these two layers. Inside this DEJ, we identified a major protein, vital to cells adhesion and skin regeneration: Laminin 5 (Ln5). Unfortunately, with skin ageing process and due to the diverse external aggressions our skin daily faces, we lost up to 50% of our Ln5. We wanted to find a way to help the skin regains these lost Ln5s. But we also found this protein was too heavy to be incorporated in a topical treatment and to efficiently penetrate the skin. That is why we focused on its active fragment: the Cebeline. We searched how to transform it to make it able to easily penetrate the skin: synthesized in a solid condition, with a smaller size and a lower molecular weight, included in an adapted galenic, Cebeline is the perfect alternative to Ln 5 when it is deficient or absent. These are these years of research and tests that lead our laboratory to create the best biomimetic active ingredient to repair damaged skins after aesthetic procedures and allow the skin to regenerate faster.

Laminin 5

Pekaline has also been created after several years of research with the INSERM Research Center and Dr. Ballotti. This is an active ingredient present on our depigmenting products line.

Depigmenting products

With this range, we chose to tackle the issue of hyperpigmentation by acting on the melanogenesis process at different levels. Our patented pekaline inhibits the kinase protein (PKA) involved in the melanogenesis process and responsible for the melanosomes’ coloration and then for the skin spots appearance. Pekaline belongs to the family of isoquinolines: an aromatic organic compound. It will also act on melanosomes pH, acidifying them. This is for this double action on the melanogenesis process that we decided to patent this active ingredient and to add it to our depigmenting products. This is exactly with the same care that we selected all our other active ingredients. This way, in our Reinforced Depigmenting, each of our ingredients has a specific role and acts at different levels of the melanogenesis process:


If we decided to add Vitamin C, niacinamide and fruits acids (AHA) in our Reinforced Depigmenting, this is for their proven efficiency towards the cutaneous issue we wanted to treat. By this way, some of our ingredients are of natural origin (vitamin C), others are synthesized scientifically (pekaline).

If we removed the fruits acids from the Reinforced Depigmenting sensitive areas equivalent: the Eye Brightening, this is because we evaluated them too aggressive for sensitive areas as eye contour area.

We also select ingredient of natural origin, as our new active ingredient the Physcomitrella Patens moss present in our reformulated Comfort Cream. If we get interested by this moss, this is because we wanted to address a current issue in our modern society: external aggressions as pollution and extreme climatic changes our skin is daily facing. This millennial moss is well-known for its resilient and adaptation properties in extreme conditions. Adding it to our Comfort Cream, we help the skin reinforcing its cutaneous barrier to be less sensitive and reactive and to face more easily daily aggressions.

Our cream contains also natural oils as sweet almond, olive and coconut oils. We added them for their hydrating and soothing properties. These are benefits we wanted to add to our product and these active ingredients answer perfectly this demand.

Comfort Cream

We can also take the example of our LCE Balm formula. Added to our patented active Cebeline, we put blackcurrant extracts to increase venous microcirculation and reduce bruises, and escin extracts to preserve the elasticity and permeability of vein walls and decongest swelling. We selected these ingredients above all for their efficiency: some are of natural origin (blackcurrant and escin extracts), others are of scientific origin (cebeline) but each of them is essential to guarantee the efficiency of our balm.

LCE Balm

In this way, at CEBELIA, we will always be listening to our customers’ concerns and we will always place our formulas’ safety in the heart of our requirements. But we also want to guarantee maximal and proven efficiency for all our products and respond to our cosmeceuticals positioning requisites.

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